Mackers

Best meal I had in my trip to Albania. Rickety tables, a family home full of ancestry and wishes, great local dishes cooked very well. I had the baked eggplant, byrek (burek) with zucchini, and their honey cake (a bonus for the table), plus lots of red wine and raki. The owner is hilarious and friendly, speaks multiple languages, and tries to get to know people's names and keep everyone happy. This is fine dining in a different sense. Don't think of white tablecloths and aperitifs. Think of honest hospitality and making do with the things you have. At any moment if you leaned forward too far, you could break the table or chair you're sitting on, so Lili has had to make do with 'tables' or recessions in the wall that are flat, where you can keep bottles of wine or water that won't spill. It is worth the wait. Prices are quite reasonable. Everything is cooked to order by Lili's wife, who comes out at the end to rousing applause. You get a real peek into Albanian culture and family life here. Highly recommended!